To create this publication showcasing the evolution of fashion photography, I have devised a timeline from thorough research, and chosen the more significant movements from 1910 to present day, as shown below. The photographic archive shows how women in the fashion industry can be sexualised.
Edward Steichen
"Conde Naste' firs fashion photographer"
Source: http://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/edward-steichen-in-vogue-125189608/?no-ist
For the photographers who followed him, Edward Steichen left a creative wake of Mozartean dimensions. There was not much that he didn't do, and do extraordinarily well. Landscapes, architecture, theater and dance, war photography—all appear in his portfolio.
Though Steichen didn't invent fashion photography, an argument can be made that he created the template for the modern fashion photographer. A new book, Edward Steichen in High Fashion: The Condé Nast Years 1923-1937, and an exhibit through May 3 at the International Center of Photography in New York make that argument with verve. Though expensively dressed women had attracted other photographers (notably the very young Jacques-Henri Lartigue in Paris), Steichen set an enduring standard.
Photography:
Horst. P. Horst
Source: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/exhibitions/exhibition-horst-photographer-of-style/about-the-exhibition/
Horst P. Horst (1906-99) created images that transcend fashion and time. He was a master of light, composition and atmospheric illusion, who conjured a world of sensual sophistication. In an extraordinary sixty-year career, his photographs graced the pages of Vogue and House and Garden under the one-word photographic byline ‘Horst’. He ranks alongside Irving Penn and Richard Avedon as one of the pre-eminent fashion and portrait photographers of the 20th century.
Photography:
Alexy Brodovitch
Source: http://www.aiga.org/medalist-alexeybrodovitch/
Alexey Brodovitch is remembered today as the art director of Harper's Bazaar for nearly a quarter of a century. But the volatile Russian emigré's influence was much broader and more complex than his long tenure at a fashion magazine might suggest. He played a crucial role in introducing into the United States a radically simplified, “modern” graphic design style forged in Europe in the 1920s from an amalgam of vanguard movements in art and design. Through his teaching, he created a generation of designers sympathetic to his belief in the primacy of visual freshness and immediacy. Fascinated with photography, he made it the backbone of modern magazine design, and he fostered the development of an expressionistic, almost primal style of picture-taking that became the dominant style of photographic practice in the 1950s.
Photography:
Lillian Bassman
Influential photographer who brought a more artistic approach to the fashion pages of Harper’s BazaarFor part of the 20th century Lillian Bassman was the doyenne of fashion photography. Her graceful, monochrome images appeared extensively in Harper’s Bazaar where she worked under the guidance of the magazine’s renowned art director Alexey Brodovitch.
Photography:
Richard Avedon
Source: http://www.biography.com/people/richard-avedon-9193034#synopsis
American photographer Richard Avedon was best known for his work in the fashion world and for his minimalist, large-scale character-revealing portraits, shooting for Harper's Bazaar and Vogue, demanding that his models convey emotion and movement, a departure from the norm of motionless fashion photography.
Photography:
Louise Dahl-Wolfe
Source: http://www.creativephotography.org/artists/louise-dahl-wolfe
Louise Dahl-Wolfe (United States, 1895–1989) is best known as a fashion photographer. Her tenure at Harper’s Bazaar from 1936 until 1958, a period when the journal was at the vanguard of dramatic changes to the style and content of women’s magazines, provided her with particular prestige. Although she is generally recognized for her astute and early use of color photography to illustrate fashion, a closer examination of Dahl-Wolfe’s body of work reveals a much more complex photographer. Through masterful combination of artistic skill, art historical knowledge, cultural consciousness, and aesthetic refinement, Dahl-Wolfe created images that constitute important contributions to the history of photography.
Photography:
David Bailey
Source: http://www.britannica.com/biography/David-Bailey
Bailey’s fashion work and celebrity portraiture, characterized by stark backgrounds and dramatic lighting effects, transformed British fashion and celebrity photography from chic but reserved stylization to something more youthful and direct. His work reflects the 1960s British cultural trend of breaking down antiquated and rigid class barriers by injecting a working-class or “punk” look into both clothing and artistic products.
Photography:
Herb Ritts
Source: http://www.herbritts.com/#/about/biography/
Herb Ritts was drawn to clean lines and strong forms. This graphic simplicity allowed his images to be read and felt instantaneously. His work often challenged conventional notions of gender or race. Social history and fantasy were both captured and created by his memorable photographs of noted individuals in film, fashion, music, politics, and society.
Photography:
Guy Bourdin
(provocative photography)
Source: http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2015/feb/26/guardian-live-guy-bourdin-the-most-influential-fashion-photographer-of-all-time
'Sinister sexuality of Guy Bourdin'
Guy Bourdin’s fashion photography was one of the genre’s most pioneering. From his 1950s heyday at Paris Vogue in the 1950s through to the 1980s, he was arguably responsible for much of what contemporary fashion produces now, inspiring everyone from Tim Walker to Nick Knight. With a focus on the concept that the product is secondary to the image, he was able to turn the ordinary and functional into the extraordinary.
Photography:
Steven Klein
Source: http://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/steven-klein
Steven Klein’s hyperreal, pin-sharp and sexually charged photography has captivated the fashion industry for 28 years since his first professional job, shooting a Christian Dior campaign in 1985.
Klein’s editorial work is renowned for its ability to transform his subjects’ images into powerful visual statements, magnifying popular conceptions of the individual or the inspiration behind the story. “You give him a dress,” remarked Anna Wintour , “and he will give you a girl in a dress with a robot in a garden.”
Photography:
Steven Meisel
Source: http://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/steven-meisel
Steven Meisel is one of the greats of fashion photography. A favourite of Anna Wintour and Franca Sozzani , he has come to dominate the Italian fashion industry, shooting every Italian Vogue cover for the last two decades and every Prada campaign since 2004.
Editorially, Meisel’s fierce defense of his aesthetics’ independence has led to him creating some of fashion’s best and most controversial fashion stories, including shooting the entirety of Italian Vogue’s 2008 all black issue. He told 032c “My favourites are the ones that allow me to say something: the black issue; the poking fun at celebrities one; the paparazzi thing; the mental institution one; the ones that I have a minute to think about; all the ones that are the most controversial in fact. But it’s not because they are controversial that I like them, but because they say a little more than just a beautiful woman in a beautiful dress. I love that too, but to try and say something is also my goal.”
Photography:
Terry Richardson
Source: http://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/terry-richardson
One of fashion’s most controversial photographers, Terry Richardson’s sexually charged and hedonistic aesthetic has made his work perennially popular with editors, designers and consumers. His editorials have appeared in a multitude of magazines including Rolling Stone, GQ, British and American Vogue, Vanity Fair, i-D, and Vice.
Richardson is no stranger to controversy due to the youthful look of many of his model and the sexually charged, and at times explicit nature of his visual aesthetic.
Photography:
For each different photographer there will be several spreads for each, the photography will boast the photographers most influential and eye catching shoots, that when compiled together in one publication allow the reader to learn how different styling in fashion photography has changed.
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